Welding Rods Explained: Types, Codes, Colours and How to Choose the Right Rod

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Welding Rods Explained: Types, Codes, Colours and How to Choose the Right Rod

welding rods explained image

WRITTEN BY: ROB ROSSETTI

One of the most important things you need are welding rods.

These rods play a big part in making strong, lasting joins between pieces of metal.

From the coating on the outside to the different colours that tell them apart, there’s quite a bit to learn about welding rods.

This guide explains the basics in simple terms so you can understand the different types, how to use them, and what the numbers and colours actually mean.



Key Takeaways


  • Consumable vs non-consumable: Stick (SMAW) and MIG welding use consumable rods (they melt into the weld), whereas TIG welding uses non-consumable tungsten electrodes plus a separate filler rod.
  • Rod materials: There are electrodes for many base metals, and each are designed to match the metal being welded.
  • AWS codes: Electrode codes convey properties. The “E” means electrode. The first digits are tensile strength. The next digit(s) show welding position. The final digit(s) indicate coating and current.
  • Tungsten colours: TIG tungsten electrodes are colour-coded by alloy. For instance, red tips are 2% thoriated tungsten, white tips are zirconiated, blue are lanthanated, and grey are ceriated.
  • Choosing rods: Select a rod to match the base metal and weld requirements. The rod’s alloy, strength and code must suit the parent metal and weld position.
  • Storage: Keep electrodes dry. Low-hydrogen rods must be stored in a rod oven to prevent moisture pickup.



What are Welding Rods?

image showing welding rods


Welding rods, or electrodes, are metal sticks that carry current to create the arc and often melt as filler to join pieces of metal.


Welding rods, also called electrodes, are metal sticks used in welding.

They carry electrical current and create the arc that melts the metal.

In processes like stick welding, the rod itself melts and becomes the filler material that joins the pieces together.

Many rods have a flux coating.

As the rod burns, this coating helps keep the arc steady and protects the hot metal.

It also forms a layer of slag that shields the weld and helps clean it.

Welding rods come in different forms.

In stick welding you use individual coated rods.

In MIG welding you use a continuous wire that feeds automatically.

In TIG welding the tungsten rod does not melt, it just creates the heat while you add a separate filler rod by hand.

In most welding processes, the electrode carries current.

In some processes it also melts into the weld.

In TIG welding, the tungsten electrode creates the arc while filler is added separately

Welding rods also have classifications.

Under AWS standards, stick electrodes have codes like E7018 that tell you about their strength, the type of metal they suit, the positions you can use them in, and the coating type.

Welders choose the right rod based on the metal they are joining and the welding method they are using.



Differences Between Consumable vs Non-Consumable Welding Rods


Consumable welding rods melt to add filler metal to the weld, while non-consumable rods (like tungsten in TIG) create the arc without melting.


Welding electrodes come in two main types: consumable and non-consumable.


Consumable Welding Rods/Electrodes


Consumable welding rods melt as you weld and become part of the finished weld.

Stick (arc) welding rods and MIG wire are good examples.

They have lower melting points and often include flux.

As the rod melts, it adds filler metal to the joint.

For instance, a stick electrode used in arc welding is made of steel and other materials that melt completely into the weld.

That is why it is called consumable.

The flux coating on these rods turns into gas and slag to protect the weld.


Non-Consumable Welding Rods/Electrodes


Non-consumable welding rods do not melt into the joint.

The most common example is the tungsten electrode used in TIG welding.

Tungsten has a very high melting point, so the rod stays the same and only creates the heat needed for welding.

In these processes, if you need extra filler metal you add it separately by hand.

For example, in TIG welding you create the arc with the tungsten rod and then feed a separate filler rod into the weld pool as needed.

The tungsten electrode itself is not used up.


Consumable vs Non-Consumable Welding Rods/Electrodes


The choice between the two depends on the welding process and what you need for the job.

Consumable electrodes add the weld metal and shielding in one go, which lets you work faster.

Non-consumable electrodes give a very steady arc and cleaner welds because the filler metal is added separately.




Different Welding Rod Metals

image showing different welding rod metals


Welding rods come in different metals like carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminium, nickel, and bronze to match the base material being welded.


Welding rods are made from different metals or mixes of metals so they match the metal you are welding.

The most common type is carbon steel, but there are special rods for stainless steel, cast iron, aluminium and other materials.

Here are some common examples:


Carbon Steel Welding Rods/Electrodes


These rods (such as the ones labelled E6013 or E7018) are made from mild steel or low-alloy steel.

They work well for general welding on everyday structural steel.

They are often rated by how strong they are.

The coating on them (cellulosic, rutile, low-hydrogen) helps the welding process.

These are the most commonly used rods.


Stainless Steel Welding Rods/Electrodes


These rods contain chromium and nickel so they match stainless steel.

They create welds that resist rust on stainless steel parts.

Common ones include the E308 or E316 types.

They keep the weld metal similar to the base metal to stop rust or discolouration.

Some have special coatings because of the high amounts of other metals in them.


Cast Iron Welding Rods/Electrodes


You cannot use normal steel rods on cast iron because it is brittle and cracks easily.

Special rods made with iron and nickel (often called Ni-99 or 99% Nickel) are used instead.

These nickel rods join well to cast iron and help prevent cracks.

After welding, the joint can usually be machined.

In TIG welding there are also nickel filler rods for cast iron.

Using the wrong rod on cast iron can cause holes and cracks, so it is important to match the rod to the metal.


Aluminium Welding Rods/Electrodes


For aluminium you need a filler rod made of a similar aluminium mix.

In MIG welding you use aluminium MIG welding wire.

In TIG welding you use an aluminium filler rod (such as ER4043 or ER5356) instead of steel.

Aluminium rods melt easily but need AC current and proper cleaning.

They handle the natural oxide layer on aluminium and its ability to spread heat quickly.

Aluminium rods are not coated like stick rods - the torch uses argon gas to protect the weld.


Copper, Bronze and Others


Copper alloys are welded with bronze or copper-nickel rods.

Bronze rods can join steel to bronze or brass.

There are also special rods for nickel or Monel to weld copper-nickel parts.

For many metals there are matching rods.

Bronze brazing rods, for example, are used on brass fittings.


Specialty Alloys


For special jobs there are rods made for tool steels, high-temperature materials, or less common metals.



What Welding Rod Codes Mean

image showing welding rod codes


Welding rod codes like E7018 tell you the electrode type, tensile strength, suitable positions, and coating type.


Welding rods have codes printed on them that tell you important details about what they are good for.

For example, a rod marked E7018 follows AWS A5.1 classification.


Prefix Letter (E, R or ER)


Most rods start with ‘E’, which means it is an electrode that carries the welding current.

‘R’ usually means a filler rod used in brazing or gas welding that does not carry current.

‘ER’ is often used for wires where the filler and electrode are combined, like in MIG welding.

For stick welding rods you normally just see the ‘E’.


Tensile Strength (first two or three digits)


The first numbers after the letter show how strong the weld will be.

For example, in E7018 the ‘70’ means the weld has a strength of 70,000 pounds per square inch.

E6010 or E6013 have ‘60’, meaning 60,000 pounds per square inch strength.


Welding Position (third digit)


The next number tells you which positions the rod can be used in.

  • A ‘1’ means it works in all positions: flat, horizontal, vertical and overhead.
  • A ‘2’ means flat and horizontal only.
  • A ‘4’ (like in E7014) usually means flat, horizontal, vertical down and overhead.

So in E7018 the ‘1’ shows it can be used in any position.


Coating Type & Current (final digit)


The last number tells you what kind of coating the rod has and what power settings it works with.

Different numbers stand for different coatings:

  • 0 or 1: coatings that give deep penetration, usually used with DC power.
  • 2 or 3: titania (rutile) coatings that work well with AC or DC power.
  • 4: coatings with iron powder that help deposit more metal.
  • 5, 6 or 8: coatings that help reduce the chance of cracking.

The ‘8’ in 7018 means a coating that works with AC or DC power.


Putting It Together


For example - E7018 means:

  • E = electrode for arc welding
  • 70 = 70,000 psi strength
  • 1 = all positions
  • 8 = low-hydrogen coating suitable for AC or DC

By comparison, E6010 means 60,000 psi strength, all positions, and a coating that gives fast-freezing, deep penetration.



The Different Colours of Tungsten Electrode Welding Rods


Tungsten electrodes for TIG welding are colour-coded by type: red (thoriated for steel), white (zirconiated for aluminium), blue/grey (lanthanated/ceriated for versatile use), and others for specific jobs.


Tungsten electrodes used in TIG welding have different coloured tips.

Each colour shows what type of electrode it is and what it is best used for.


Red Tipped

Red-tipped tungstens contain 2% thorium oxide and are known as thoriated tungsten.

These red electrodes last well and give a very steady arc when welding steel and stainless steel.


White Tipped

White-tipped tungstens have about 0.8% zirconia and work well for AC welding of aluminium and magnesium.

It resists getting dirty and handles high current well.


Blue Tipped & Grey Tipped

Blue-tipped tungstens contain 2% lanthanum oxide and grey-tipped contains 2% cerium oxide.

Both the blue (lanthanated) and grey (ceriated) electrodes start the arc easily and can be used for many jobs.

They work well on thin metal and with both AC and DC currents.

They give smooth, steady arcs that are good for precise work.


Turquoise Tipped

Turquoise electrodes (often called Multi Star or rare earth mix) contain a blend of rare earth oxides.

They suit many different tasks, give a steady arc and last a long time.


Purple Tipped

Purple tungstens (E3, which contains rare-earths) work in a similar way.

It has very low wear and gives very consistent results.



Picking the Right Welding Rod

image showing the importance of picking the right welding rod


Pick the right welding rod by matching its type and strength to the base metal, joint, position, power source, and welding conditions.


Picking the right welding rod is very important if you want a strong weld without problems.

It is a bit like choosing the right welding machine for the job.

The main thing to remember is to match the rod to the metal you are welding and what you are doing with it.

For example:

  • For mild steel you would normally use a carbon steel rod.
  • For stainless steel, use a stainless steel filler rod.
  • For cast iron, you need a nickel-iron rod.

The type of metal in the rod and how strong it is should match the metal you are joining.

Using the wrong rod can lead to cracks, rust, or a weak joint.


Other Factors


There are other things to think about too, such as the position you are welding in and what kind of power you are using.

Rods are rated for certain positions like flat, horizontal, vertical or overhead.

Some rods only work with DC power (for example 6010 rods with DC+), while others like 6011 or 7018 can work with either AC or DC.

Always check that the rod’s details match what your machine can do.

You also need to think about the joint you are making and the conditions you are working in.

Thicker metal may need more power and rods that freeze more slowly.

Thin sheet metal often needs rods that freeze quickly so you don’t burn through.

If you are welding outside or in windy conditions, a flux-coated rod is usually better.

Always look at your welding procedure and check the code on the electrode or ask your supplier to make sure everything matches.

Finally, remember that the type of welding you are doing also matters - such as whether it is TIG vs MIG welding.



Storing Welding Rods


Store welding rods in a dry, sealed container or heated rod oven to keep moisture out and maintain their performance.


It is very important to store welding rods properly so they stay in good condition.

Rods must be kept dry.

Moisture from the air can get into the coating on stick rods, especially the low-hydrogen types. This ruins how well they work.

A damp rod can cause lots of spatter, an unsteady arc, and cracks in the weld caused by hydrogen.

Because of this, keep unused rods in a sealed container or cabinet.


Rod Ovens


Many workshops use rod ovens or holding ovens to keep electrodes dry.

Low-hydrogen rods should be stored at around 110 to 150 degrees Celsius (225 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit). This stops moisture from getting in.

On the other hand, high-cellulose or fast-freeze rods have more moisture in their coating on purpose, so they usually don’t need to go in an oven.

If a rod has been left out in damp air, it needs to be dried again before you use it.

This is usually done by putting it in an oven at the right temperature for a set amount of time.

The instructions for drying are often printed on the rod packaging.

In any case, always keep rods in a sealed container or oven when you are not using them.

Storing rods the right way makes sure the coating works properly and helps you get strong, reliable welds.



FAQ


What happens if I use the wrong welding rod?


Using the wrong rod can cause the weld to crack, become weak, or rust over time.

It may also create a lot of spatter or make the arc hard to control.


How can I tell if a welding rod has gone bad?


A rod that has absorbed moisture often causes excessive spatter, an unstable arc, or small holes in the weld.

You may also notice the coating looks damaged or feels damp.


Are there big differences between cheap and expensive welding rods?


Cheaper rods can work fine for simple jobs, but more expensive ones often give a steadier arc, less spatter, and better results on tricky metals.

The main difference usually shows up in consistency and ease of use.


What safety things should I watch out for with welding rods?


Always keep rods dry, as damp ones can cause dangerous hydrogen cracks in the weld.

Wear proper gloves when handling them and never use damaged or heavily rusted rods.


How do I know when to change the tungsten electrode in TIG welding?


Change the tungsten when the tip becomes rounded, dirty, or starts to melt away.

A worn electrode makes it harder to keep a steady arc and can contaminate the weld.



Final Thoughts

Welding rods, also called electrodes, are important tools for joining metal.

They carry the current, create the arc, and often add the filler metal needed to join the parts together.

Rods come in different metals to match the metal you are welding - from carbon steel to stainless steel, aluminium to cast iron.

Each has a coating or mix that suits the material.

They are labelled with codes that tell you their strength, which positions they can be used in, and what type of coating they have.

When welding, always choose a rod whose code and metal type match your job.

The right rod helps give you good results, strong welds, and better quality.

By understanding the different types of rods, the materials they are made from, and what the codes mean, you can pick the proper electrode and make clean, strong welds safely and effectively.

For more information on welding rods, or help with any and all of your welding needs, get in contact with us here at Xtreme Plasma.



About the Author

ROB ROSSETTI


Rob Rossetti is the owner, founder, and driving force behind Xtreme Plasma, where he also personally handles technical support and customer care.

After years working as an engineer producing precision components for the oil, gas, and water industries, he founded the business in 2010.

He drew on hands on workshop experience to originally manufacture precision parts before expanding into the in-house design and production of complete CNC plasma tables.

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